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Thailand (Holiday)

September 13th, 2007

2nd August

15th August

Laos

July 25th, 2007

July 21st

We hired some bikes after breakfast and went off to tour the sights. After the first temple we couldn’t go down any of the roads through the town as the police were blocking them. We dumped the bikes and wandered down the main street to find out what was going on. Apparently it was the funeral of a very famous monk in Laos and monks had come from all over Asia to be part of the ceremony. There was a huge precession through the town, hence the roads being blocked. We watched until everyone had passed through and then retrieved our bikes and headed for the Royal Palace which was very impressive. We finally got some money from my credit card and the guy charged us 6% plus gave us a rubbish rate. We had little choice though as both banks had chosen that weekend to move to new premises and the ATM’s were out of action. We picked up some rolls for a late lunch and got caught in a huge tropical storm, we sheltered for a while but when we realised it wasn’t going to stop we cycled home and got soaked! After getting showered and changed we popped to the restaurant across the road, the food was very nice but the service was very slow!

July 22nd

We had decided to go to one of the many waterfalls near Luang Prabang, we tried to haggle with the tuk tuk drivers but they all wanted at least $15 return which we thought was expensive. We headed down to the river to try and charter a boat but they wanted $25! Luckily 4 other travellers arrived who were also looking to do the same thing. The guy agreed to take us for $4 each, we also got a nice cruise down the Mekong which we thought we had missed out on. He took us to a village and then a truck agreed to take us to the waterfall for $1 each return. On the walk to the waterfall was a little nature reserve that had some bears and a tiger. Then we made our way up to the waterfall, it was a cool waterfall and there were loads of pools to swim in on the way up, some even had huge swings! We spent the rest of the day there and then the guy took us back to the boat and we cruised back to Luang Prabang. Ruth and I went for dinner with two of the guys from the boat and had some traditional Laos food.

July 23rd

A tuk tuk picked us up at 8am and took us to the bus station for our VIP bus to Vientiane, it was a bit shabby round the edges but there was loads of room as it was only half full. DVD movies had been advertised but unfortunately all we got was karaoke dvd’s and a film in Chinese. The scenery was stunning though and it gave us chance to read and sleep. We got a free bowl of noodle soup for lunch and then continued the 4 hours to Vientiane. A tuk tuk driver ripped us off for the ride into town but nevermind, we struggled to find a hotel as most were full but eventually we found one overlooking the river for a reasonable price. On the way to the cash point (very desperate now) a guy tried to get us in his Indian restaurant, an English couple were there and said it was excellent. So after getting some cash for a 3% fee we went there for dinner. The food was excellent and it was probably the best attempt at an English style curry I have had since I left. We had a few beers then hit the hay.

July 24th

After a massive breakfast of pancakes we hired some bikes and headed off for the sights. We went past the presidential palace and went into the oldest Wat which still stands. After that we climbed up their mini Arc d Triumph and then on to the National Monument. On the way back into town we stopped at the National Museum which was very informative, it was quite amusing as whoever had translated the parts about the war obviously hated the Americans and made sure everyone knew it. Ruth picked a place for dinner and we ordered some Laos food, it wasn’t that great unfortunately. Then we found a little street bar for a few beers.

July 25th

We hired a motorbike and set off for the Buddha Park which is about 25km South of the main town. We got a bit lost but eventually found the Lao-Thai friendship bridge and knew we were on the right track. It was a strange place full of lots of stone Buddha’s among other sculptures. The roads were pretty dodgy in places and we got a puncture on the way back, luckily we got it fixed at a garage for 25p!!! We got a bit lost coming back but made our way into town and then went for a well deserved massage. After that a bite to eat and bed.

July 26th

We had planned to head to Savannakhet today but unfortunately Ruth had been up being ill all night so I went down at 6am and cancelled the bus. About 9am it hit me as well and we were both took it in turns to utilise the facilities while watching movies and reading. We were both very glad we hadn’t caught the bus!! We went out for some plain food late evening as we seemed to be on the mend. It seemed to go down okay so we booked the bus for the following morning.

27th July

We were very glad we hadn’t caught the bus yesterday when we saw the state of it. It was supposed to be a VIP air con bus but was knackered. It got underway and with the windows open there was a fairly cool breeze and there were quite a few spare seats. After about 5 hours the driver stopped and got out, I got out to have a look and the engine was overheating. It obviously happens a lot as he had loads of water and kept throwing it over the engine!!! I presume there was a small crack in the radiator so when he filled it back up with water I thought we would be good to go. However he couldn’t get it started, luckily it was on a slight hill so we jumped it. He then revved it like mad for about 10 minutes, I figured we would be on our way thought shortly. For whatever reason he stopped the engine again, had another little look and then just stood there. I still don’t understand what was wrong as it seemed fine to me and was no longer overheating. The solution was to wave another bus down that was already full, some people got a plastic seat in the aisle but the rest of us were crammed like sardines standing at the front of the bus. We complained but in their limited English it appeared that if we didn’t get that bus we would have to wait until the morning for a another bus. After a couple of hours and a little boy being sick everywhere we eventually managed to score a plastic seat in the aisle. An hour or so later the bus stopped at one of the towns and quite a few people got off so we secured the back seat. We arrived in Savannakhet eventually and got a tuk tuk to a fairly dingy hotel and set out for dinner. The locals were very amused at the sight of us in our waterproofs trudging through the rain. It was like a ghost town and nowhere really seemed open. There was a posh French restaurant but I was still craving plain food and we felt underdressed. Eventually we settled on a Lao-French place and got some dinner. Afterwards we looked for a travel agent to get details of the bus to Pakse as our hotel had no idea, there wasn’t one so we headed off to bed exhausted.

July 28th

We caught up on some much needed sleep and then picked up some breakfast before heading to the bus station as no one seemed to know the time of the buses. Thankfully we only had to wait an hour for the bus to Pakse although only a local bus was available. It was a fairly simple journey although there were many additional stops, we picked people up for about 30 minutes after leaving the bus station despite still being in Savannakhet?! I have no idea why some people come to the bus station and others get picked up! We arrived in Pakse early evening, checked into a hotel, got showered and then went to meet my Uncle Rick who had also arrived that day. We found him enjoying a beer at his hotel so we joined him. We had hoped to eat at the restaurant on the roof of his hotel but they were worried about rain so it wasn’t open. We found a place round the corner and enjoyed some nice food and a few beers and discussed our plans for the next few days. Rick had met a Swedish couple who advised hiring motorbikes to explore Wat Phou temple so we decided to do that.

July 29th

Vietnam

July 10th, 2007

3rd July

Caught the bus in the morning from Cambodia to Ho Chi Minh City, it was a pretty painless jouney as they sorted all the border crossings out (and bribed the customs guys on our behalf!) It took about 7 hours and we arrived to lashing rain and millions of motorbikes. There are 9.5million people in HCMC and 4.5 milion motorbikes, its crazy! We checked into a hotel in the heart of the backpacker area and set off for some Vietnamise food and a couple of beers as its about 30p a pint.

4th July

Spent the day exploring the sights, the most interesting of which was the War Remnants Museum where we spent a good few hours. Its very one sided but doesn’t detract from all the attrocities that the Americans committed during the war. The heavens opened again about 4pm and continued for the rest of the night so we stayed local for some dinner and a few beers.

5th July

We booked a trip around some of te Mekong Delta and surrounding villages. It was very good we went to a huge wholesale floating market and then to some of the local shops where they made coconut candy and various other sweets. Then we got paddled up the river in some small traditional boats to a place for lunch before getting the boat back to the bus. It was a good day despite the boat breaking down twice.

6th July

Spent the morning wandering around a few shops then caught the train up to Nha Trang, it was 8 hours packed in with the Vietnamise. It was pretty comfortable though and air conditioned, on arrival we caught a cab to the main hotel area. I then spent about an hour walking round the hotels as they were all full! Eventually some guy let us stay in a little room on a matress (I think its where he normally slept) and then offered us a room the following day! We then popped out for a quick bite to eat before bed.

7th July

Had a nice day relaxing on the beach and the weather was pretty decent, the first day it didn’t look like rain all day! After dinner we popped out to some of the many bars advertising happy hours and cocktail buckets and stumbled home in the early hours.

8th July

Felt pretty terrible the whole day! We hired a scooter and went to the local mud bath and spa. It was 5 quid each for a 45 minute mud bath, followed by a hot spa and then there was pressure jets and a huge swimming pool. It was very relaxing and helped my hangover! We used the bike to go to a Vietnamise restaurant for dinner and then went to the Sailing Club for dessert. We booked a boat trip around the islands the following day and so had an early night to try and get rid of our hngovers.

9th July

We joined our boat trip and had a really good crew, our boat was full of Westerners and was basically a party boat, they started people drinking beer at about 9.30am! I resisted until after I had been snorkelling at the first place. At the second island they served dinner and then set up a floating bar and gave us all rubber rings to float on by the boat and we drank free cocktails. I went jetskiing at the next island where we were joined by a crazy Vietnamise band! Last stop was the aquarium but most people didn’t go in as you had to pay extra and it didn’t lok very good. That night met up with some of the guys from the boat and got involved in some more cocktail buckets and a club.

10th July

Felt pretty bad again! Chilled out most of the day and wandered round a few of the shops in town. Went to an Italian for dinner and then booked an overnight bus to Hoi An tomorrow.

11th July

The bus was at 6pm so we figured we may as well make the best of the room until midday, and get plenty of sleep as we wouldn’t on the bus! We picked up some cheap rolls and went to a few book exchanges to chop in our mountain of books. The guy was really nice and offered us a free coffee at his restaurant. We popped in there and they gave us iced Vietnamise coffee which was lush and then some iced green tea which didn’t taste like a cup of perfume as green tea normally does, to me anyway! The guys sons were really friendly and had both worked as tour guides all over Vietnam until recently so we said we would come back for dinner before the bus. With only a couple of hours to kill we went to the internet and into a few shops. We went back to the restaurant and had some lush food, he gave us a load of leaflets to hand out for him and we promised to write to the lonely planet for him! We got back to the hotel only to be told the bus was full, even though they assured us they had booked it? We got him to phone every other bus company and the train office as we had already been there longer than we intended and needed to get moving. Ruth and I also went to a few other places as we were a bit suspicious. We had no joy but then somehow he managed to get us some black market tickets for the train at 5.40am. We had the same shabby room as the first night, this time for $3 for the few hours sleep we were going to get!

12th July

The guy from the hotel woke us up at 4.30am as for some reason in Vietnam they like to get to the station 45 mins before the train?! We asked him to phone us a taxi but he said they were closed, even though he said he would get us one last night?! He then locked the door on us….cheers mate! Thankfully the guy in the hotel next door helped us out and got us a taxi. We arrived and waited the 40 mins for the train and then headed to our sleeper carriage. All the trains travel from Ho Chi Minh City to Hanoi taking between 30 and 40 hours so when you get into your bed someone else has just got out…..nice! We both dozed for a while but I gave it up and read my book to pass the time. It was a pleasant journey and we got lots of food and water included with our ticket. We arrived in Dalang at 2pm and did a deal with a minivan to take us to Hoi An. After a couple of rolls for lunch we picked up our admission tickets and set off to explore the old city. It was about 36 degrees which is the hottest its been for a while so it was knackering. We went back for a cool down in the air con and then went to a local restaurant who did us a set menu of the local specialities which was lovely. Few beers and a game of pool and then bed. P.S. I found draught beer here for about 12p for a glass! Dreamy!

13th July

We had booked on a trip to My Son today which is the most famous temple in Vietnam. We had a lovely free breakfast at our hotel and then caught the bus for the hour trip. It was 38 degrees by the time we got there and you felt like you were getting burnt in the sun even at 10am! We jumped in a jeep for the last 2km to the entrance and then set off on the 1km walk around the site. It took about an hour and we were drenched with sweat by the time we got back! We cruised back to Hoi An and picked up some more cheap rolls for lunch, I am loving the bread as I haven’t had any for so long, and at 15p a cheese baguette its a bargain! Spent the afternoon on the internet and in the swimming pool. We met a girl from round Ruth’s way on the trip and are hopefully meeting up with a Dutch couple and some lads from Bentham we met in Nha Trang tonight.

14th July

We caught the bus at 8am for the 4 hour trip to Hue. The bus dropped us outside their office and although we normally go somewhere else we decided to check ou their hotel. It was nice and cheap so we decided to stay there. After some lunch we hired a motorbike and set off to explore the ancient citadel and forbidden purple city. Its a shame as they were badly damaged in the war so there isn’t much left to see apart from the old walls of the city. We then headed off to one of the pagodas and got absolutely soaked in torrential rain, which luckily only lasted about 20 minutes. After a cruise round some more of the city we dumped the bike and went to meet up with a lad we met in Malaysia. He had met a Ducth girl so we had dinner and a few beers with them.

15th July

We had booked what was supposed to be a trip down the river taking in some of the tombs of the old kings. It turned out the whole day was on a bus apart from a small trip up the river at the end which we missed as we were running late and had a bus to catch. Never the less the tombs were amazing, they were basically cities built around a tomb which only the kings used, or later were used for worship. After that we were thoroughly tombed out and not looking forward to our 14 hour overnight bus trip to Hanoi. We were supposed to be collected at 5 so we were getting a bit worried by half past. We checked with reception and he made some calls and assured us everything was ok. Next thing we know a guy turns up and tells us that the bus is full and we have to sit on the floor but he will refund $1 from the $7 we paid!!! I kicked off as this had happened before and we got the receptionist to double check before giving us the tickets. We were all arguing about it and he kept pleading with us, we really needed to get to hanoi so I was thinking about saying we would sit on the floor but only if we got a full refund. Next thing the receptionist turns up and starts screaming at the guy so I guess it was their fault! After 5 minutes of that we had a seat, dreamy! There were alot of other disgruntled people on our bus, some had paid $13 for the sleeping bus (that you can lie down on) and were told when they turned up it was full and they could go on our bus or not go to Hanoi at all, no refund!!! Everyone had a seat to start with however we picked up loads of Vietnamese half way and they all sat in the aisle!

16th July

Arrived in Hanoi after very little sleep, some guy from the bus company gets on and sais that the bus cannot go into the Old Quarter as the streets are too narrow, however if you know the name of the hotel you want to stay at they will give you a freee taxi there. Otherwise they will give you a free taxi to their office and help you find somewhere. We got a taxi with a German couple and picked the Sparks Hotel from the Lonely Planet, the guy kept ignoring us though and drove us round the houses to his hotel. As soon as we got out we tried to walk off telling him that he hadn’t dropped us where we wanted, he said if we didn’t stay at his hotel we must pay for the taxi. I told him that wasn’t the deal and he started swearing at me, I swore back and walked off. Alot of hotels were full or didn’t have any beds clean and we wanted to get a couple of hours sleep. I had been off for a look at some hotels and then came back and Ruth went off. The guy from the taxi turned up again and had obvioulsy been looking for me, I was tired and in a bad mood anyway so when he came over I started shouting at him and he seemed a bit scared but told me he was with the Vietnamese mafia!!! Anyway the guys from the hotel came out and then some random woman came over to him and started shouting at him and he soon disappeared! In the meantime Ruth got lost on the way back from the hotel that she had been to look at! She reappeared about an hour later and we gave into one of the other touts and checked into his hotel. We were past sleep by now so hired a motorbike and negotiated Hanoi’s crazy traffic to the museum of ethnology. It took quite a bit of finding especially as the guy from the hotel sent us the wrong way, when we eventually arrived it was closed! We cruised back into town and decided to visit Ho Chi Minh’s mausoleum and museum, however they too were closed!! We decided to cut our losses and head for the cinema to watch Die Hard 4, just to top the day off it was over dubbed in Vietnamese and there were no subtitles so we left straight away, luckily we managed to get a refund. We went back to the hotel, dropped the bike off and went for food and beers.

17th July

We booked on a trip to Ha Long Bay, got picked up at 8am and drove the 3 hours to the harbour. The boat was awesome and we were served a great seafood lunch on arrival. We went to the aptly named Amazing Cave and then tree top island which had a great lookout over the area at the top. We then moored up for dinner and a few beers.

18th July

Early breakfast then some of us went kayaking around the area. Then it was back to the boast, washed and changed and back to the harbour. Once we disembarked we were driven to a nice restaurant on the largest island and fed a huge lunch. We arrived in Hanoi about 4pm to find that the hotel hadn’t bothered to save us a room despite promising they would. Also our passports were not back from getting the Laos visa which should have only taken a day! They sent me to another hotel which was double the price of theirs, I kicked off and they took us somewhere else. It wasn’t as nice but I was too fed up to argue. We finally checked in and went for some food and tried to sort out our trip to Laos. It turns out it was going to take about 30 hours to get from Hanoi to Luang Prabang despite the Lonely Planet advising of another border crossing. We started to think that maybe it might be better to fly so asked a round for a few prices. We ended up goping back to our old hotel just to sanity check prices, while we were there our passports were found, they had never been sent for the Laos visa!!!!! That made our desicion for us and we decided to fly as we could get a visa on arrival without wasting more time. Also I was fed up with Hanoi and ready to leave as soon as possible! Went for some cheap beers to chill out and then went to bed as we still hadn’t recovered from the overnight bus journey.

19th July

Woke up about 8am to the sound of drilling and banging…..dreamy. Ruth went downstairs about 8.30 to make sure the guy had booked the flights. We had managed to get our hotel to give us the cheapest price so thought we may as well use them. About half an hour later the guy comes and knocks on our door and tells us we have to check out as they have to come and work in our room. I was really annoyed as check out time was 12pm and he must have known yesterday when he checked us in. He told us he had booked us a lovely room at his friends hotel, I didn’t really want to stay there so tried to find somewhere else. Didin’t have any joy however I found that the new hotel was only $12 despite him trying to charge us $14. When he produced the receipt he has also taken the liberty of charging us for a taxi to the airport and a mysterious tax for the flights! I told him we had agreed an all in price and that the hotel down the road was only $12, he didn’t like it but relented. When we took our bags down to the new hotel they said the room wasn’t ready, I had seen it an hour early an it was fine, I kicked off and it turned out they had rented it out for an hour despite knowing we were on our way….unbelieveable!!! We hired another motorbike and headed off to the museum of ethnology, it was disappointing to say the least! We tried again to go to Ho Chi Minh’s mausoleum but there was a big military ceremony and we couldn’t get close. We picked up our tickets, dropped the bike off and went for dinner and some beers.

20th July

Up early and went for breakfast then when we are getting ready the guy comes and tells us we have to check out despite it being about 9.30am and check out is 12pm. No doubt they have rented it by the hour again!!! The taxi came at 10am and didn’t try to rip us off which was a miracle as we had heard alot of bad stories. We had arrived about less than 3 hours before the flight but there was no sign of a check in desk. It was a bit of a mess in there and no one seemed to know where our queue would be or when it would open! The desk finally opened with just over an hour to go although there weren’t many people in the queue despite us being told we had the last two seats. We went straight through departures and to the check in desk, on our way out to the plane there was only about 10 people on the bus and it turned out the flight was virtually empty despite being a tiny plane! It was a trouble free journey, we got our visa and luggage and then caught a tuk tuk to a guesthouse. We spent the rest of the afternoon wandering round Luang Prabang and trying to get some cash from somewhere. We had a nice early dinner in town and then went to a br near our guesthouse for a few beers before bed. Beer Lao is meant to be the best beer in SE Asia, not sure about that but its not bad for 40p a pint.

Cambodia

July 1st, 2007

25th June

We set off from Bangkok and caught the MRT to the bus station, unfortunately it doesn’t quite go that far so we hopped in a taxi for the last few km. We set off on a nice air conditioned bus for the 5 hour trip to the border. On arriving at the bus station we were set up on by several tuk tuk drivers, we agreed a price with one and he drove us the last few km to the border. Once through there we walked to the Cambodian side, the guard demanded $20 for the visa plus a $5 “service fee”. I pleaded with him that Ruth and I had no more money so couldn’t pay the service fee, he eventually relented but I thought it would be an hour until I saw my passport again. Thankfully it only took 5 mins and then we set off for the border. We had heard off all the transport scams on the Cambodian side and were anxious to avoid them, after lots of haggling we managed to get a taxi to take us to Siem Reap for $30. The taxi driver had to bribe the policeman so he could take us as they get a cut from the bus they try and put you on. It was without doubt the worst road I have ever been on and with the taxi travelling around 80km’s per hour over the huge bumps I don’t know how the suspension didn’t break…..God bless Toyota! We arrived in Siem Reap around 10pm and checked into a guest house and relaxed with a few beers and some cheap food.

26th June

We decided on an easy day after yesterdays epic journey and planned a wander round town and a visit to the Land Mines Museum. After a wander round town and some lunch we went back to negotiate with a tuk tuk driver who had been chatting to us last night. It appears that for some reason the Cambodian government has forced them to move the museum 30km out of town, perhaps they thought is was bad for tourism? Although we were prepared to pay the tuk tuk driver whatever price he quoted he kept dithering and didn’t seem to want to take us although he kept trying to sell us a trip to Angkor tomorrow. We spent the afternoon around town and in the internet. We went out to bar street early evening for a few beers in a bar called Angkor What? and some traditional Khymer food, afterwards we hit another cheap bar called Temple.

27th June

We did a deal with a tuk tuk driver that for $10 he would drive us around the Angkor temples for the day. First stop of course was Angkor Wat which is amazing although its hard to comprehend the size as you can’t get a great view of it. The carvings are very impressive. We then followed the small circuit taking in several other temples including Ta Prohm where the part of the first Tomb Raider film was set. After that we were templed out so headed back to the hotel for a bit of tv and a relax…we had BBC World and it was great to be able to watch the news for a change. We went to another nice eatery on bar street and a few drinks, buckets of whisky, coke and red bull were 2 quid each so it seemed to be the way forward!

28th June

We set off for our second day around the temples taking in the large circuit which is about 40km starting in Siem Reap. It was another good day and made you realise what a vast area of temples there were near Angkor. About 4pm we were templed out so started to head back to the hotel, the heavans opened and the rain was torrential. Out tuk tuk had rain covers but our driver got soaked! The drains can’t cope either so all the roads just flood which makes in pretty dangerous especially with the huge pot holes. We made it and took refuge in the hotel for a couple of hours until it subsided. We hit bar street again for some more local food once the rain calmed down a bit and then went to the Temple Bar. We met a couple of lesbians there and ended up drinking buckets of vodka and red bull until the early hours.

29th June

Woke up feeling rough and found that Ruth had been up most of the night probably with food poisoning. We decided to give our third day round the temples a miss and spent a very relaxed day. We went to an Italian restaurant for dinner and Ruth just had a Margarita as she was still dodgy.

30th June

We caught the bus at 8am to Phnom Penh, thankfully this road is sealed the whole way and it was a blissful 5 hour journey apart from the dodgy air conditioning which made it sweltering at the back where we were. Ruth was still a bit dodgy so it wasn’t so pleasant for her. On arrival about 20 tuk tuk drivers started shouting at us for business, we had booked a place down the road which was less than a km so decided to walk. Eventually 1 guy said he would take us for $1 so we agreed! He then gave us the hard sell and we agreed to use him tomorrow for a tour of the sights. As we could take in most of the sights tomorrow we headed down to the Russian market for a look a round and went to a lush coffee shop for a late lunch. We had a dirt cheap dinner and then retired to our $6 room which had 60 channels of cable tv.

1st July

After a quick breakfast we set off with our tuk tuk driver to the Toung Sleng genocide museum. It used to be a school and was turned into prison under the Pol Pot regime. We watched a very sad video for an hour and then wandered round the make shift prison which has lots of pictures of the victims on the walls. Next stop was the killing fields however our driver took us to a random shooting range on the way. You could fire pretty much any weapon you could think off, rocket launchers, machine guns etc! I had a quick blast with an AK-47 from about 40m and hit the target 19 out of 25 times. The killing fields is a series of mass graves, some of which have been exhumed and so there is a stupor which comemorates the dead and contains thousands of skulls. Its a horrible place and after walking round it I was happy to leave. Our driver took us to the Royal Palace next which is very ornate and reminded me of the Grand Palace in Bangkok in some ways. For some reason we hadn’t had a lunch stop, normally the tuk tuk guys take you somewhere they get comission so we went to a tapas bar that trains street kids to work in restaurants as a non profit making organisation. Went out to a local restaurant for dinner and a few beers.

2nd July

The weather was pretty bad today so we didn’t venture out that early. We went for a walk along the river and were going to do a cruise but there didn’t seem much to see. We went to a book exchange and the internet and then a bar for some dinner.

Malaysia Part II

June 19th, 2007

12th June

We had a bit of time to kill in the morning so we popped out to do some more shopping although didn’t end up buying anything. We flew back to Kuala Lumpur and then changed to our flight to Kota Bharu. We had planned to stay the night there but ended up getting a cheap taxi to Kuala Besut, it meant we could catch a boat straight from there in the morning to the Perhentian Islands.

13th June

The woman at the airport had told us that boats run every hour so we decided on the 9am one. On our way we saw the smallest kittens ever, I think they must have been born shortly before as they couldn’t walk. One of them fell into the drain and the mother was too scared of the water to get it so we ended up fishing it out! We arrived at the jetty to be told that boats ran at 8, 10 and 12 so we had over an hour to kill! We went for breakfast and finally arrived on Kecil island around 11am. All the accommodation was basic to say the least so we opted for a slightly more expensive place with its own toilet. The beach and water were beautiful so we spent the afternoon mainly swimming. The sun must have been very strong as despite suncream we got mildly burnt and a lot of people looked like lobsters! We went to a place that did bbq’d fish for dinner but it couldn’t compete with the Gili island for quality or price. We went for a beer at our bar but it was 1 pound 50 for a tiny little can so gave up that idea and went to bed.

14th June

Another day of relaxing on the beach in the main followed by dinner and bed.

15th June

We booked a snorkelling trip for today which took us on a tour around the two islands. It was very good we saw turtles, sharks, stingray and hundreds of other fish. We stopped for lunch at the local fishing village and then the guy dropped us back around 4pm. We went out for another bbq dinner and then were just heading home when the heavens opened. We sheltered inside playing cards and it continued to rain for the rest of the night.

16th June

Back to Kuala Lumpur today so we had to catch the 8am boat back to Kuala Besut and then got some breakfast. We caught a taxi to the airport and checked in then had to wait for a few hours, arrived back in KL around 5pm and caught a bus into the centre. Again in the lashing rain! We hadn’t been able to find anywhere to stay so got a taxi to take us to the Chinatown Inn which was very nice. As the weather was still rubbish we decided to go to the cinema after an Indian from a little restaurant. The cinema was at KLCC, a huge shopping mall under the Petronas towers, the queue was ridiculous and took 25 minutes, by which time we had missed Oceans 13. We opted for Shrek 3 instead which was pretty good.

17th June

We got up early and headed to KLCC to queue for our tickets to go up the Petronas Towers. We got a time of 4.15pm do had plenty of time to kill! After some breakfast we had a wander round the shopping mall as its sale season here. There wasn’t much but we did get some cheap stuff in the Diesel shop. As we still had a few hours to kill and you can only go half way up the Petronas Towers we went to KL tower which is the 4th largest telecommunications tower in the world and gives an excellent view of KL. We went back for out Petronas Towers visit which was disappointing to say the least! You watch a video for 7 minutes saying how great Petronas is, get taken up in a lift to the bridge between the towers, have about 5 mins to look around and then get shepherded down again! We booked some tickets over the phone and went to watch Oceans 13 after another nice dinner at the Indian.

18th June

Ruth had booked to see the dentist to get a cheap filling done so I headed to to Low Yat Plaza to check out the electrical stuff, mainly laptops. It was a huge place although probably not as big as Singapore. The laptops were very good value but as I didn’t want to carry it round I probably wouldn’t save that much after secure postage so decided to wait till I get home. Met up with Ruth for lunch and then she went to a hair academy and had her hair done for a pound!!! We then headed over to Independence Square for a wander round. The Hard Rock Cafe was supposed to be the best place to catch local live music so we went there for dinner, it was pricey as expected! The band didn’t start until 11pm and weren’t very good so we caught the last monorail home at midnight.

19th June

Popped to the Post Office to send some stuff home and used a decent internet place for a change! Then it was off to the Cameron Highlands. Arrived about 8pm after a 5 and a half hour bus journey, some touts meet us at the bus station so we checked into Daniels Lodge as we got a free pickup. We had some wicked tandoori chicken for dinner with home made naan breads and then went back to relax round the bonfire by our hostel bar.

20th June

We had booked on a little sightseeing trip today, first stop was a butterfly house and then up to the highest point in the Cameron Highlands stopping to admire the tea plantations. Then we went to the BOH tea factory and got shown round before sampling some lush tea in the cafe. We stopped at a honey bee place before getting dropped back in town to get some lunch. We spent the afternoon wandering round the shops and on the internet!  Went out for some dinner and then had an early night ready for our early start in the morning.

21st June

We caught the 7am bus to Penang, which was VIP and the best bus we have been on so far!  In Butterworth we met a couple from Bristol and caught the ferry over to penang with them and then checked into a new guesthouse.  A the bus hadn’t stopped we were starving so went for some lunch.  It was boiling so we spent the afternoon in the  museum and shopping mall.  We went out for some lush tandoori chicken in the evening and then chatted in the bar with the couple from Bristol.

22nd June

We caught the local bus to Penang Hill and caught the slowest train ever up the hill.  There were good views from the top and it was nice and cool, there were also loads of cheeky monkeys trying to nick peoples ice creams.  By the time we got back to the guesthouse there wasn’t time to go anywhere else so we chilled out and then went for another lush tandoori and a few beers.

23rd June

There wasn’t much left to do in Penang so I spent the day reading the lonely planet ready for Cambodia, Vietnam and Laos.  I picked a Chinese place for dinner but it was pretty rubbish even though it was packed.  Then we had some SKOL beer which is brewed locally and 5% so much better than the awful stuff you get in England.

24th June

We had to go to the airport at 6.00am as there was a marathon on that morning which had closed the bridge and the main highway.  Although it was an international flight Air Asia didn’t bother opening the desk until 2 hours before so we had a nice wait at the check in desk!  After a short flight we landed in Bangkok, it was absolutely boiling after the Cameron Highlands and Penang which had been a bit cooler.  We got our stuff and caught a taxi to the hotel.  After a spot of lunch we hit the MBK centre for some bits of shopping that we needed.  I had arranged to meet up with a guy who I used to work with and he came into Siam square about 3pm, we couldn’t find anywhere to drink other than the Hard Rock Cafe so we ended up in there, at least it was happy hour.  We had a good catch up with him and then he left to meet up with some friends so we went to watch Pirates of the Caribbean in Gold Class as Ruth had wanted to see it for ages!

Indonesia

May 29th, 2007

24th May

Awoke quite late after the football, we decided to head up to the historic part of Jakarta. We set off walking but soon realised the guy from the hotel had shown us the hotel was on a different road to where it actually was! Knackered, sweaty and coughing in the fumes we caught a taxi for about 60p. There wasn’t much to see except some old Dutch buildings and a swing bridge. We went into the second oldest builiding which is now a posh bar for a beer and a cool down. We decided to walk back and go to one of Jakarta’s huge shopping malls however it wasn’t there?! We popped back to the hotel and then walked to two other huge malls. Although it was only about 8pm everything was shutting up so we went to one of the food streets for some Chinese food. We were pretty tired by now so caught a taxi back and watched a bit of tv.

25th May

We caught a taxi down to the centre of Jakarta and went up the National Monument which is in the centre of a large park. It was a great view although you also realised how bad the smog was! We ended up in pizza hut for lunch as they had a new cheesy bites pizza that Ruth wanted to try…it was good. We went to the National Museum but it was closed and we also had a look at the palace. We caught another taxi to the old antique market and had a wander around. There was all sorts of junk there and I don’t think it was all valuable! We caught a taxi back to the hotel and then went for a look at the shopping mall opposite. There was a nice Chinese place there so we popped in for dinner. We went back to the hotel and hit the music bar (all the best nightspots in Jakarta are in 5 star hotels for some reason). There was a live band who were singing requests, it was Western prices so after a couple of drinks we retired.

26th May

After a quick taxi trip to the station we caught a train to Bandung, there was great confusion over tickets and I had to run down just before the train left to ensure we had executif tickets, which means air con and comfy seats for 1 pound 20 extra! It was a relaxing 4 hour journey through rice fields and terraces. We arrived a checked into hotel arimbi 3 for 4 quid a night. We went for a wander round town through the shopping malls and markets and then found a nice place for dinner. We stumbled upon a huge complex with loads of restaurants and a live band after dinner so we chilled there with a few cheap beers.

27th May

We negotiated with the hotel and they got us a driver and a car for 18 quid! He drove us up to the top of the volcano about an hour away and we walked around the top before taking the 1.2km track down to the next crater that you can actually walk in. There were lots of people cooking eggs in the hot springs and the scenery was spectacular. We met up with our driver again who took us up to some tea plantations and then back to the hotel to catch our minibus to Pangandaran. This was a mission jouney that was supposed to take 4 hours and ended up taking 8! The driver didn’t tell anyone what was going on so we didn’t know to buy food etc when he stopped for some….lesson learned! The guy from the previous hotel reckoned we could get an aircon room at his friends place for 6 pounds a night and it was 500m from where the bus dropped us. Turns out it was 2.5km with our backpacks and aircon rooms were 18 pounds! We were tired so said we would stay one night in a fan room for 6 pounds. I managed to buy a couple of bananas for dinner and we went to bed.

28th May

After our free breakfast we headed out to find alternative accommodation, the bloke follwed us and now we could have an air con room for 8 pounds?! He still tried to give us one by the pool for 12 quid but we said no, they had clearly been trying to rip us off the previous night but as we were only staying 1 more night it wasn’t worth the hassle. We organised a guide to take us to the Green Canyon for 6 pounds each, this consisted of Ruth and I following him for about 30km on a scooter and then a boat trip up the canyon. It was spectacular at the top where it rains continuously due to the rain from the plants roots. We followed him back and then went for a wander up the beach and to find a travel agent other than our hotel. We booked transport to Yogjakarta and then tried to use the phone…60p a minute to the UK, the internet was also out of service! We found an awesome restaurant at lunchtime so went back for dinner and a few Bintang beers.

29th May

Our driver came at 9.30 and drove us to the station to get the train, much better than having to leave at 6am and get two public buses! The train arrived about 30mins late and we were directed to the back. We had asked for executif again so I checked with another bloke, turns out we were right at the front so had to mission through the narrow train with all our bags. Had a plate of fried rice for lunch and then arrived in Yogajakarta at about 4pm, pleasantly surprised as we had been told it would take 7 hours and only took about 4 and a half! We were accosted by a bloke from a travel agent who sorted out a taxi for us and proceeded to try and sell us his tour. The first place didn’t have any aircon rooms left so the guy took us down the road to another place. Settled in, we started chatting to the guide and booked one of his tours for tomorrow! Popped on tinternet for a bit and then went to a place down the road for some food.

30th May

Got picked up at 4.45am….nice! so we would arrive at Borbodur temple for sunrise. We got there about 6am and hired a guide for 3 quid between the 6 of us. It was an amazing temple built around the 8th or 9th century, it has no concrete holding it together just the blocks on top of each other! It has done pretty well to survive all the earthquakes etc and all the carvings can still be seen clearly. After a couple of hours looking round we set off for the Dieng Plateau. It is one of the richest areas in Indonesia as they produce loads of fruit and veg which is exported. The scenery is full of terraces with all kinds of different crops. There are a couple of temples up there but nothing to rival Borbodur, also a volcano and a crater lake. We arrived back at the hotel around 8pm a we got a flat tyre on the way back due to the crazy roads. We popped out for some food and then went to bed as we were knackered.

31st May

We set off to explore some of the sights of Jogya as the locals call it. First stop was the sultans palace which is in the middle of a small city in the middle of Jogya, you pay the Sultan 17000 rupiah a year ground rent……1 English pound! It wasn’t particularly impressive mainly because he actually lives there so I don’t think you get to see the best bits. After that we went to the old water palace built by the first Sultan and also his own private underground Mosque. Ruth wanted to see the ballet so we caught a couple of buses out to the Pandarran temple which you can no longer go inside due to a recent earthquake which has made it unsafe. We caught a glimpse of it then wedged up some VIP seats for 9 pounds for the ballet. The seats were awesome and we got a can of coke and a packet of biscuits included! The ballet was a bit strange and more like dancing but it was ok. We had a bit of a mission getting back as all the taxis were trying to rip us off. We eventually flagged a bus down to the bus station and then caught a taxi from there.

1st June

We had used the same travel company to sort us out with transport to Bali via the Bromo volcano. We got picked up at 9am in an awesome brand new mini van with leather seats, aircon, cd player, the works. Turns out it must have been the owner or something as we were only in it for an hour before we got transferred to a crappy old minivan with dubious aircon! We stopped after about 10 minutes and spent an hour sweltering while some dodgy guy fixed our engine trouble….not sure what was wrong as they couldn’t explain it but it involved revving the engine loads and I was sure it was going to blow up! We eventually set off again only for the driver to stop again saying he was sick and had a headache, he then told us he hadn’t slept for two days as he had been driving the whole time! Dreamy, only another 6-8 hours to go on some mental roads! We were supposed to arrive at our accommodation in Bromo at 6pm so when we stopped at 8pm we thought we must be there, turns out we had to change onto the public bus an finally arrived at 9pm. It was frezzing cold and we were the only guests as a strange little hotel but at least they gave us some dinner then we went straight to bed.

2nd June

Up at 3.30am so we could hit the volcano at sunrise! Some dud drove us in an old school Toyota Landcruiser up to te viewing point with about 4 million other people! We couldn’t understand why it was so busy a we had hardly met any tourists then realised it was Saturday and they were all locals. The sunrise wasn’t that spectacular mainly as it was cloudy but the view of Mount Bromo and the other volcanoes was amazing, you could see xxx volcano errupting in the background. After an hour or so up there thr guy drove us to Mt Bromo where it was a 20 minute walk up to the rim of the crater. You could get a horse for 3 quid but it seemed pretty cruel. We watched the local 4×4 club tharshing their cars in and around the crater landscape then headed back for breakfast. We had to get the public bus back down and it was mental, they crammed so many people in, had them hanging off the doors and on the roof. I was sure an axle would give way as it was also fully loaded with rice on the roof! After an hour our bus still hadn’t arrived, we spoke to the guy and he said it wouldn’t be there until 4pm, 6 hours later! He said we could get two other buses but the second one wouldn’t be airon. We went for that option and it turned out to be a mission, buskers get on every 5 mins, play a song then ask for money and the air con was crap! The second bus was even worse and we eventually arrived in Bali at 10pm about 4 hours later than planned! Got a taxi to a hotel in Kuta, had a couple of beers then went for a lie down to try and ease my aching back!

3rd June

Hada nice breakfast at the hotel then spent the day lazing on the beach. Played in the surf which was very strong! Went out for some nice food and then had a wander round the street stalls who are desperate to sell anything as its dead here now most of the Aussies no longer travel here.

4th June

Hired a scooter for 2 quid and filled it up with petrol for 60p and headed off to Gawung Kawi which is an old Hindu temple carved out of a cliff. We also visited the cultural town of Ubud, the roads were much less manic here and it felt much safer than Jakarta although the scooter wasn’t particularly comfortable! We got back and had some dinner then decided to hit the bars, in one place it was BOGOF cocktails for 2 quid and they came in fish bowls and contained a quarter of a bottle of vodka! Suffice to say it was quite messy especially when they got me on the rice wine later.
5th June

We spent another day relaxing in Bali, we had planned to go surfing but the currents were horrendous and the red flags were out. Even waist deep you could hardly stand up and got dragged all over the place. We booked transport to the Gili islands in the evening after deciding we didn’t want to risk flying with Indonesian airlines to Flores.

6th June

We had been promised we would be in the Gili islands at 3pm! We got picked up at 6am and driven the hour to the harbour, we could have easily made the 8am ferry but were told we were on the 9am and it was basically so we would buy breakfast in his mates cafe. Some guys grabbed our bags when the fery arrived and we knew we would have to pay but Ruth and I figured about 5000rp each would be fair. They demanded 200,000 and then dropped it to 100,000. The ferry across cost 20,000 each so it was ridiculous. They started squaring up to me and not wishing to get in a fight with a load of Indonesians I eventually gave them 30,000. It turned out some people paid the 100,000!!! The ferry was supposed to take 4 hours and ended up taking 6, most of this delay was so a million people could come on the boat and try and sell you stuff and hugely inflated prices! In Lombok we sat in the harbour about 500m from the jetty for about an hour with all the persistent sellers hasseling you! We got on the bus, carrying our own bags and were told we would stop at their office for 15 minutes to get our return tickets. We were there over an hour as they tried to flog everyone a tour to a mountain on Lombok! We arrived at the harbour in Lombok in a storm and jumped on the boast to Gili, it was a pretty nerve racking boat journey and we finally arrived at 7.30pm! We checked into a lovely place with stylish bungalows and decent bathrooms for 6 quid a night. We then took a wander past the restaurants and ordered a fresh red snapper which was taken away and grilled, then served with spuds, salad, rice etc for 4 pounds! Had a few beers relaxing on cusions on the beach and then went to bed knackered.
7th June

We had a nice day chilling by the beach which was lovely and quiet and much more peaceful than Bali.  It was cheaper as well.  We picked a massive Trevally for dinner and then wandered up to a really cool bar called horizontal.  It looked very British and it turns out was owned by a British couple (as were most of the places on Gili)  It was empty but we got chatting to the bar manager who was called pineapple and he plied us with free cocktails while we ordered beers.
8th June

Felt a little worse for wear, we spent the day on the beach again but tonight was the big party night on the island.  Unfortunately Ruth was too hungover still so there was no party for us!  We watched a dodgy dvd in a little hut on the beach while we ate dinner and ice cream then had a wander down to check out the party night but went to bed around midnight.
9th June

It was another hard day chilling on the beach.  We met a Kiwi guy called Tom who was living in Jakarta working for UNESCO.  The All Blacks were playing France in the afternoon so we went to the bar to watch it with a few beers.  That it where we ended up for the rest of the day and into the small hours!  We met a huge South African guy called Jerry who we agreed to go snorkelling with thw following day.

10th June

I felt so rough in the morning there was no way I was making snorkelling at 10am! Ruth headed off while I had a more lesuirely start to the day.  I was going to join them later but wasn’t exactly sure where they had gone.  Ruth came back feeling rough later on and we went for some more nice fish for dinner.  Jerry invited us to his place so we went there afterwards, little did we know that he had bought some rice wine and we ended up drinking that until the early hours!

11th June

We caught the boat back to Lombok in very choppy seas, I got soaked and so did most of my bags!  Then it was a bus back to the ferry which again took about two hours longer than it was supposed to!  We eventually arrived back in Bali about 7.30pm.  After checking into the same hotel we popped out for some dinner and then a bit of shopping.   got a couple of fake t shirts for less than 2 pounds each.

12th June

We had a bit of time to kill in the morning so we popped out to do some more shopping although didn’t end up buying anything.  We flew back to Kuala Lumpar and then changed to our flight to Kota Bharu.  We had planned to stay the night there but ended up getting a cheap taxi to Kuala Besut, it meant we could catch a boat straight from there in the morning to the Perhentian Islands.

13th June

The woman at the airport had told us that boats run every hour so we decided on the 9am one. On our way we saw the smallest kittens ever, I think they must have been born shortly before as they couldn’t walk.  One of them fell into the drain and the mother was too scared of the water to get it so we ended up fishing it out!  We arrived at the jetty to be told that boats ran at 8, 10 and 12 so we had over an hour to kill!  We went for breakfast and finally arrived on Kecil island around 11am.  All the accommodation was basic to say the least so we opted for a slightly more expensive place with its own toilet.  The beach and water were beautiful so we spent the afternoon mainly swimming.  The sun must have been very strong as despite suncream we got mildly burnt and a lot of people looked like lobsters!  We went to a place that did bbq’d fish for dinner but it couldn’t compete with the Gili island for quality or price.  We went for a beer at our bar but it was 1 pound 50 for a tiny little can so gave up that idea and went to bed.

14th June

Another day of relaxing on the beach in the main followed by dinner and bed.

15th June

We booked a snorkelling trip for today which took us on a tour around the two islands.  t was very good we saw turtles, sharks, stingray and hundreds of other fish. 

Malaysia, Borneo & Brunei

May 11th, 2007

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